Cool and happy

Long planned winter tour is over. Together with Louka we spent 8 nights in Femundsmarka and across the border in Sweden (from 7/2 to 15/2). We skied 75 km with two sledges, carrying all the supllies and tent. The conditions were almost perfect: not too much snow, no water on the ice, almost no wind, a lot of sun, and sometimes very cold. Our original plan was to start at Femundshytta, ski to Litle Vonsjøen, stay there 3 nights in the cabin and continue further. However, there has been too little snow for snowscooter in western parts of Femundsmarka and Bente from Haugen gård was not able to reach the cabin and give us the key. 

Time to adjust the plan - thanks to the advice from Kenneth Østreng (takk for det!) we started in Sweden (Grövelsjön) and reached Femundsmarka from west. It is a longer route, but there was more snow, snowscooter track goes all the way to Bredåsjön and the terrain is more ski-friendly. Our route, together with sleeping places, is shown on the map below. 

Day 1: Grövelsjön-Hävlingen-Klacken (16 km; 09:00-14:00)

First kilometers from the parking up to the mountains (from 830 m to 1030 m)

Following the snowscooter track over the mountains

down to Hävlingen lake and our first snack

and continue to this shelter next to Klacken lake. These swedish shelters are amazing - very easy to heat up and very comfortable to have a break, dry clothes etc. We fished nearby little bit in the evening and I had a big fish on the hook, but it bent the hook and escaped. Definitelly 2-3 kg fish, no idea what type...

Day 2: Klacken-Vonsjøen- Bredåsjön-Litle Vonsjøen (15 km; 9:00-14:00)

Starting the day with homemade cakes (thanks Sika!) before skiing 15 km to our favourite lake - Litle Vonsjøen

Reaching Bredåsjön, still on the snowscooter track. Time for some snack. 

Remembering our struggle in summer, I was little worried how we will manage to ski between Bredåsjön and Litle Vonsjøen. But we got lucky and found an older ski track made by somebody who knows the area well to avoid all the bouldery fields. (we saw the man later on Litle Vonsjøen, as he camped there as well, but we did not meet to talk). The track led to this gate, where we re-entered Norway. 

We set our camp on Litle Vonsjøen near our favourite fishing spot.

My favourite colors...

Day 3: Icefishing on Litle Vonsjøen

The night was cold but sleeping in our small Jurek tent was OK. However, seeing sun was nice in the morning.

We started fishing at sunrise and got 5 very good size arctic char.

It was cold and making a fish soup was great idea. We were using winter gas bombs (till -22 C) and they worked well, but we needed to take care of them during the coldest nights (=sleeping with them in the sleeping bag). I have never been winter camping before, so I thought that making a fire was a great idea, but we did not make any fire at all. It is too much work without any real effect. 

Testing another fishing place on Litle Vonsjøen in the evening

Day 4: Icefishing on Litle Vonsjøen in the morning; skiing to Kløfthåbua in the afternoon (7,5 km; 14:00-17:00)

We spent the morning on the same place as in the evening before and got 6 perfect fish there. 



Cooking on ice made us busy during the periods when fish did not bite. 

After lunch it was time to pack 

and leave the lake. 

This is the cabin we were supposed to stay. Hopefully next time! Hei, Bente:)

Without any tracks to follow it was little bit challenging to find the best way ... but the weather was amazing and it was just great to move through the nature. On some south-oriented hills we seen red cranberries and many birds' tracks.

Following the nature has always been a good idea.

We reached the Kløfthåbua cabin in the evening and hoped for warm place, but this cabin is real winter nightmare. It is an old summer cabin used many years ago by workers who transported wood from Rogen to Rørøs. It is big (7 beds), not isolated at all and almost impossible to heat up. It was below minus 25 outside and around minus15-20 inside in the morning, 

Day 5: Icefishing near the cabin

Cold morning next to the cabin (Røa river)

Sun, hurrraaaa

Warming up by making a lot of wood.

Cold place, but lovely

We did not get any fish that day (and drilled into the stone - good that I had an extra pair of blades). But we grilled some fish from previous day and enjoy the day

Day 6: Kløfthåbua - Titjønna (9 km, 9:00-15:00)

Leaving the cold cabin as soon as sun is up

This day was the most challenging. But every moraine ends eventually...

Weather was still amazing and nature beautifull

but we were getting tired...

Following the creeks and animals' tracks. Probably there is a better way...

And finally in the tent on Titjønna lake

Day 7: Icefishing in the morning; skiing to the east end of Vonsjøen (6,5 km; 14:00-16:00)

Relatively warm cloudy morning on Titjønna

Only fish we got in the morning

Sylfjellet  and Grøthogna in the back (1335 and 1402 m). Time to move further.

Day 8: Icefishing on Vonsjøen; skiing to Klacken (5 km; 16:00-17:30)

Fishing on Volsjøen

The Fjellpulken sledges were perfect for moving in the snowy landscape

The only fish we got that day was the biggest one of the whole trip

Stronger wind in the afternoon reminded us how lucky with weather we have been during the whole trip.

Skiing towards the last night

Day 9: Klacken - parking place in Grövelsjön (16 km; 09:30-14:30)

last lake...

last forest...

last rest shelter ...

and final downhill towards the car.

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