PØK-BLOK: Warriors of the North vs. Packrafts

Another summer, another expedition of Warriors of the North. As usual, we went to Femundsmarka and nearby Sweden, this time combining hiking with packrafting. We were four (Louka, Vit, Vojta and me) and we carried four packrafts. Our route and camping places are shown on the map below. It was about 55 km long and we were out 6 nights. Looking back at it, it would probably be better to do it in the opposite direction (because of wind).

Day #0 - before the start. Norway-Sweden-Norway

We rented the packrafts from Fjellboms. These inflatable boats are very light (3-4 kg), "easy" to carry and can handle heavy bags as well. As we have never tried them before, we were excited to see how we would manage them. Unfortunately, two of them were not in the best conditions (one was deflating a lot and another had a leaky bottom), but we somehow managed to use them (just needed to stop every hour to inflate/take out the water). After the trip, Kjell from Fjellboms returned us half of money and apologised for this. Thanks for that!

Packrafts are really great help when exploring remote waters, as they are very stable and can be carried in the bag on longer trips. When I was picking them in Oslo, I was able to transport all four in my bicycle carrier. Now we are actually thinking to purchase our owns.

I picked up the boys on Friday midnight at the airport. After 2 hours driving we slept over near Elverum. Thanks to Sika we had great homemade cakes for the breakfest.

My original plan was to drive to Grövelsjöen (Sweden) and use the boat taxi to cross the lake. This would have saved us 10 km of hiking. Unfortunately, because of the strong wing (over 20 m/s), the boat was not operational and the forecast for next two days was not very optimistic. Therefore, we drove back to Norway and camped next to Halvorsjøen lake. I was actually OK with the potential delay, as I had some back issues. However, we wanted to go to the wilderness! And Louka did not seem very happy to camp next to the car for a couple of more days. So after a few glasses we decided that we would not rely on boat taxi and rather hike across the mountains. So the plan for the next day was set.

Day #1 - Salsfjellet (Norway-Sweden-Norway)

We tried to reduce our load, however we ended up with 25+kg bags each. Vit was actually carrying 30+kg bag. We drove back to Sweden and started to hike. Wind was really strong (still over 20 m/s) and crossing the mountain was not easy. It took us 5 hours to hike 11 km to reach our first camp next to Røa river.

Start. For the first time in my life I used the walking sticks and it helped a lot.

The path in Sweden is really well done.

First few km was just uphill. The wind was so strong, that it had power to stop a man. Luckily, we had heavy bags:)

On the borders again. The nice path ends here.

Reindeer along the way across the mountains

Finally, the uphill is over and we found a rest without strong wind

Northern end of Grøvelsjøen. Going downhill was actually worse than going uphill.

We still need to walk 1 km, but we need a soup first.

Finally the end of this windy day. We camped on the same spot as I did a few years ago with Belma.

Day #2 - Upper Grøtådalen

Another 10 km long hike. But this one was beautifull. Walking along the upper parts of Grøtåa river is among the best section I have ever walked in Femundsmarka. The water level in the river was low and the water was very clear. We spotted several trout (Vit and Vojta saw one monster jumping for fly), but there was almost no chance to get any.

Over Brundalsbekken

upper parts of Grøtåa valley

father, son and two large bags

relax along the way

my favourite landscape

crossing Grøtåa, only 500 m to the camp... but we need to rest

our second camp

nearby lake Stormyrtjønnan

Finally we got some trout in that lake. Several trout escaped (something we experienced often in the upcoming days)

My favourite lure, in the color of cranberries

Day #3 - from Grøtåa til Vonsjøen

Louka and I woke up early and fished little bit in Stormyrtjønnan. It was lovely morning without any fish. We started to move to Vonsjøen at 11 - this was our typical starting time. The hike is just 2 km long, the landscape was again amazing, but we were getting tired.

morning fishing

Louka found some chaga near the camp

On the way to Vonsjøen, view back towards Stor Svuku

We found nice camping place on a small peninsula at a western end of the lake and stayed two nights there.

We tested the packrafts in the afternoon, getting one nice trout during the test. I realised it is not an easy task to land a fish on the pacraft in the waves near the shore.

I tried fishing in the evening as well. Did not get any fish, but just being here was perfect.

Along the way back to the camp

Day #4 - Vonsjøen and Kratla

This was our "rest" day. Well, we fished the whole morning and we made a trip to Kratla in the afternoon and evening, so it is difficult to call it a rest.

Morning packrafting and fishing was perfect. Especially when I managed to get a trout over 1 kg and a 80 cm pike from the packraft.

Vojta and Vit got pike and trout as well, so we had a lot of meat to eat. Trout in Volsjøen were in amazing conditions during this time of the season - all fish we had on our rods were around 1 kg and were fighting (often with success) a lot. Only Louka had no luck, so we were hoping that he would get some fish soon (luckily he did that day)

Lets go to Kratla! A system of smaller lakes next to the Vonsjøen, known for good trout and arctic char, especially in winter. We were there twice during winter, but never in summer, so we were curious.

Unfortunately, this creek ended soon and we needed to carry our boats to another lake

Eldorado

We spent beautiful evening there... but fishing was without a chance (too nice weather I guess)

Langtjønna

Day #5 - Back to Sweden

It was time to move back to Sweden. Our plan was to paddle 8 km to Nedre Grötsjön, a lake in the upper part of Hävlingen system. We met a Swedish flyfisherman there, who gave us several good tips about fishing and the route ahead.

Last stop before leaving Vonsjøen

Fishing in Nedre Grötsjön was just perfect. During two hours in the evening we landed several trout over 1 kg that were swimming in shallow waters near the camp. Quality of fish was just amazing.

and Louka was happy!

Louka's new frying pan was busy during the whole trip

Day #6 - Over Håvlingen til Särsjön

Wind/waves again against us, plus some rain and frequent stops to inflate one of the packrafts made the day harder, but after 5-6 hours we made it to the designated camping place at the end of Särsjön lake (the borders of Töfsingdalen national park). We managed to fish in the evening as well. Vit decided to fish after pike, and he got big fish, but it was not pike but biiiig trout. He managed to land it next to him, but without a net he was not able to take it out the water...after couple of efforts to grab it by hand the fishing line was cut by a stone and the trout swam away. We must come back!

start of the day

on the water

a portage between Nedre Grötsjön and Klacken

Klacken lake. When we were skiing here in winter, those lakes seemed small, but now in summer, we realised they are actualy pretty large

Louka, aka The Blowing Man, had a problem...

The end of Klacken lake

Finally, the end of paddling (Särsjön lake)

time to dry

Särsjön is a beautifull lake

with big fish as well

Day #7 - Back to the car

It was raining in the morning, so there was no rush. I went fishing, but no bite at all. The rain stopped at 13:00 and we started our hike to Grövelsjön. The bags were lighter and we were in good shape, so it went well.

Vojta, the youngest Warrior (10 years, 36 kg). He was carrying 20+kg bag and managed his own pacraft. Among other fish, he got a trout almost 50 cm long and a big pike. Not baaad!